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Is there any point trying to go for an Iranian girl if you're not Iranian?The people I've spoken to said they 'look down' on pakis and Indians.I lingered, unsure what to do, aware of the many people around us and the police just across the street, before thinking ‘fuck it’ and pulling her into an alleyway for a cheeky kiss.She had to leave, of course, and I had plans to check out Iranian Kurdistan.I LAY IN MY SLEEPING BAG, the cold barely kept at bay.I had entered Iran during the depths of winter and was beginning to wonder if this had been a mistake.Luckily, Esme waived the dowry, so we were able to get married for free.Temporary marriages provide a way for Iranians to be intimate together without breaking the law.

Being anywhere together, particularly after dark, could get us into a shit-ton of trouble. It is illegal for an unmarried couple in Iran to stay in a room together which meant, given the large quantities of police on the streets, we were kind of screwed.

We talked on the beach and I leveled with her; I had fallen in love with her country, and with her.

A couple of months later I saw her again: she flew out to join me for a backpacking adventure in India and we raced a multicolored rickshaw 2500km across the country.

Luckily, thanks to Couchsurfing, we were rescued by some locals who let us crash in their sitting room while we came up with a plan.

“Screw it, let’s get married.” I said to Esme across our cornflakes.

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