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Although tourism is on the increase, western tourists still make up only 10% of the total.One tourist guide said westerners are scared away by the bloodcurdling rhetoric of a government which is completely out of touch with ordinary Iranians.By 2009 nearly 70% of all Iranians were under 30, but the country is the least religious in the Middle East.Instead of the “armies for Islam” Khomeini had called for, the youthful population is now seen as the biggest threat to the deeply unpopular regime. The mosque now serves as a tourist attraction but sees only a trickle of visitors.

That Mosaddeq had been a democratically-elected leader, with wide popular support fuelled resentment at western powers, and the Shah, who many saw as a brutal puppet for the west.

Said one Tehrani “we’re not naive like the Arabs to think a violent uprising will magically fix everything. and things only got worse.”At the Sa’adabad Palace complex in northern Tehran, Islamic revolutionaries sawed a statue of the deposed Shah in half.

Today schoolchildren are taken on group visits past the boots and into the palace to see the decadence of the former Shah’s living quarters.

In Tehran a can of beer on the black market fetches around USD.

Detail of Persepolis, the seat of the Ancient Persian empire.

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